Kylemore Crochet Sweater – Free Pattern
The Kylemore Crochet Sweater brings a playful splash of color to a classic, relaxed sweater design. Featuring narrow, colorful stripes, contrasting ribbed edges and a slightly oversized silhouette, this handmade sweater is a lovely addition to your wardrobe throughout the year.
This free crochet sweater pattern combines simple stitches with an eye catching color combination. The main body is worked using single crochet and short spike stitches, while half double crochet stitches create the ribbed hem, cuffs and neckline.
One of the things I really love about about this design is how much you can personalize it through your yarn choices. I used a combination of warm golden tones, oranges and turquoise for the striped sections, with a contrasting dark turquoise for the ribbing.
You could easily create your own version using earthy shades for autumn and winter, softer colors for spring or even a single color for a more understated look.
The sweater is crocheted in separate panels and seamed together, making the construction easy to follow. Its relaxed fit makes it easy to style with jeans, skirts or your favorite everyday outfits.

How the Kylemore Crochet Sweater is Constructed
The Kylemore Crochet Sweater is constructed from four separate pieces: a front panel, a back panel and two sleeves. Each piece is crocheted flat, working from the bottom upwards, before everything is seamed together.
The pattern uses three simple stitches throughout: single crochet, short spike stitch and hald double crochet.
We begin each body panel with the ribbed hem and each sleeve with its ribbed cuff. Once the ribbing is complete, we work along its long edge, crocheting back and forth in rows until the piece reaches the required length.
The main sections feature alternating rows of single crochet and short spike stitches, creating the distinctive striped appearance of the sweater.
Once all four pieces are complete, they are seamed together to form the sweater. The ribbed neckline is then crocheted directly onto the assembled garment.
Changing Colors Without Weaving in Lots of Ends
For my Kylemore Sweater, I used one solid color for the ribbed hem, cuffs and neckline, with three alternating colors for the main body and sleeves.
Each stripe color is worked for two rows before changing to the next color. You can cut your yarn after every color change but this will leave quite a few ends to weave in. Instead, I carried the unused yarns strands loosely up the sides of my work. Although the edges may look a little untidy while you’re crocheting, the carried strands are concealed when the panels are seamed together.

Yarn
For the Kylemore Crochet Sweater, I chose Drops Alpaca, a sport/fine weight yarn made from 100% alpaca. This lightweight yarn gives the sweater a beautifully soft finish and a lovely drape, making it suitable for layering throughout the seasons.
I was initially a little hesitant about using such a fine yarn for a crochet sweater, but after working the first few rows, I was delighted with the result. The finished sweater feels light and soft, while the simple stitches create a subtle texture that compliments the colorful stripes.
Yarn Colors Used
For my Kylemore Sweater, I used four shades of Drops Alpaca:
- Dark Turquoise (2918): Ribbed hem, cuffs and neckline
- Goldenrod (2923): Striped sections
- Turquoise (2917): Striped sections
- Orange (2915): Striped sections
Yarn Quantities
- 1 ball Dark Turquoise for all sizes
- 3(3, 3, 3, 4, 4) balls Goldenrod
- 3(3, 3, 3, 4, 4) balls Turquoise
- 3(3, 3, 3, 4, 4) balls Orange

Kylemore Crochet Sweater at a Glance
- Skill level: Advanced beginner
- Sizes: S, M, L, XL, 2XL, 3XL
- Fit: Relaxed, slightly oversized
- Yarn weight: sport/fine
- Main stitches: single crochet, half double crochet, short spike stitch
- Construction: Four separate panels worked flat from the bottom up and seamed together
- Terminology: US crochet terms
Sizing & Measurements
S(M, L, XL, 2XL, 3XL)
Finished bust: 42(46, 50, 54, 58, 62)”
Width: 21(23, 25, 27, 29, 31)”
Length: 20.5(21, 21.5, 22.5, 23, 23.5)”
GAUGE: 18 sts x 28 rows = 4×4″

Materials
- Yarn: Drops Alpaca – sport/ fine weight, 167m per ball
- Crochet hook: 4 mm
- Notions: yarn needle, measuring tape, scissors

Stitches & Abbreviations
ch = chain
sc = single crochet
hdc = half double crochet
hdcblo = half double crochet back loop only
SSPst = short spike stitch
st(s) = stitch(es)
rem = remaining
SPECIAL STITCH: Short spike stitch (SSPst): worked the same as a regular single crochet except you insert hook in stitch 1 row below.

The beginning ch 1 DOES NOT count as a stitch.
This pattern uses US crochet terms
Change colors every two rows.
CROCHET KYLEMORE SWEATER PATTERN
*Use the Dark Turquoise for the hemline, cuff and neckline. Use also for first two rows of main body of back/front panel and main body of sleeves. Continue changing colors every two rows with the remaining 3 colors.
Back Panel
*The body panels are crocheted from the bottom up starting with the ribbed hem and then crocheting along the long edge of the ribbing to create the back panel.
Ribbed hem
Ch 13
Row 1: hdc in 2nd ch from the hook and in each ch across, turn. [12 hdc]
Row 2: ch 1, hdcblo in each st across, turn.
Rep row 2 until you have 64(68, 76, 80, 86, 92) rows completed.
Do not fasten off. We will now work along the long edge of the band.
Main body
Row 1: ch 1, sc 95(103, 113, 121, 129, 139) evenly across, turn.
Row 2: ch 1, sc in each st across, turn.
Row 3: ch 1, sc in same st, *SSPst in next st, sc in next st, rep from * across, turn.
Row 4: ch 1, sc in each st across, turn.
Row 5: ch 1, sc in same st, *sc in next st, SSPst in next st, rep from * across until 2 sts rem, sc in last 2 sts, turn.
Row 6: ch 1, sc in each st across, turn.
Rep rows 3- 6 until the end of row 130(134, 138, 142, 146, 150).
Fasten off.
*Alteration note: You can add or remove rows to make your sweater longer or shorter.
Front Panel
Repeat BACK PANEL instructions until end of row 118(122, 126, 130, 134, 138).
*Alteration note: If you altered the length of the back panel, crochet until you are 12 rows short of the total number of rows in you back panel.
Do not fasten off. We will now work on the shoulders.
Shoulders
Counting from your crochet hook, place a stitch marker in the 29th(33rd, 39th, 43rd, 45th, 49th) st.
Row 1: ch 1, sc in same st, *SSPst in next st, sc in next st, rep from * across, turn.
Row 2: ch 1, sc in each st across, turn.
Row 3: ch 1, sc in same st, *sc in next st, SSPst in next st, rep from * across until you reach 2nd st from marker, sc in each of the last 2 sts, turn.
Row 4: ch 1, sc in each st across, turn.
Rep rows 1-4 two more times. Fasten off leaving a long tail.
Count in from the other edge and mark the 29th(33rd, 39th, 43rd, 45th, 49th) st. Attach yarn to that marked st.
Row 1: ch 1, sc in same st, *SSPst in next st, sc in next st, rep from * across, turn.
Row 2: ch 1, sc in each st across, turn.
Row 3: ch 1, sc in same st, *sc in next st, SSPst in next st, rep from * across until 2 sts rem, sc in each of the last 2 sts, turn.
Row 4: ch 1, sc in each st across, turn.
Rep rows 1-4 two more times. Fasten off leaving a long tail.
Sleeves (Make 2)
Cuff
Ch 13
Row 1: hdc in 2nd ch from hook, hdc in each ch across, turn. [12 hdc]
Row 2: ch 1, hdcblo in each st across, turn.
Rep row 2 until end of row 27(29, 29, 31, 31, 31).
Do not fasten off. We will now work along the long edge of the ribbed cuff.
Main Sleeve Body
S(M, L, XL) ONLY
Row 1: ch 1, sc 41(43, 43, 45) sts evenly across, turn.
Row 2: ch 1, sc in each st across, turn
Row 3: ch 1, sc in same st, *SSPst in next st, sc in next st, rep from * around, turn.
Row 4: ch 1, sc in each st across, turn.
Row 5: ch 1, sc in same st, *sc in next st, SSPst in next st, rep from * across until 2 sts rem, sc in each of the last 2 sts, turn.
Row 6: ch 1, sc in each st across, turn.
Row 7: ch 1, sc in same st, *SSPst in next st, sc in next st, rep from * across, turn.
Row 8: (inc. row): ch 1, 2sc in first st, sc in each st across placing 2sc in last st, turn.
Row 9: ch 1, sc in same st, *sc in next st, SSPst in next st, rep from * across until 2 sts rem, sc in each of the last 2 sts, turn.
Row 10: ch 1, sc in each st across, turn
Row 11: ch 1, sc in same st, *SSPst in next st, sc in next st, rep from * across, turn.
Row 12: ch 1, sc in each st across, turn.
Row 13: ch 1, sc in same st, *sc in next st, SSPst in next st, rep from * across until 2 sts rem, sc in each of the last 2 sts, turn.
Row 14: ch 1, sc in each st across, turn.
Row 15: ch 1, sc in same st, *SSPst in next st, sc in next st, rep from * across, turn.
Row 16: (inc. row) 2sc in first st, sc in each st across placing 2sc in last st, turn.
Rep rows 9-16 until you have 67(69, 71, 73) sts.
Continue in st pattern WITHOUT any increasing until you reach row 118. Fasten off leaving a long tail.
2XL & 3XL only
Row 1: ch 1, sc 45(45) sts evenly across, turn.
Row 2: (inc. row): ch 1, 2sc in first st, sc across placing 2sc in last st, turn.
Row 3: ch 1, sc in same st, *SSPst in next st, sc in next st, rep from * across, turn.
Row 4: (inc. row): ch 1, 2sc in first st, sc across, placing 2sc in last st, turn.
Row 5: ch 1, sc in same st, *sc in next st, SSPst in next st, rep from * across until 2 sts rem, sc in each of the last 2 sts, turn.
Row 6: (inc. row): ch 1, 2sc in first st, sc across placing 2sc in last st, turn.
Row 7: ch 1, sc in same st, *SSPst in next st, sc in next st, rep from * across, turn.
Row 8: (inc. row): ch 1, 2sc in first st, sc across placing 2sc in last st, turn.
Row 9: ch 1, sc in same st, *sc in next st, SSPst in next st, rep from * across until 2 sts rem, sc into each of the last 2 sts, turn.
Row 10: (inc. row): ch 1, 2sc in first st, sc across placing 2sc in last st, turn.
Row 11: ch 1, sc in same st, *SSPst in next st, sc in next st, rep from * across, turn.
Row 12: ch 1, sc in each st across, turn.
Row 13: ch 1, sc in same st, *sc in next st, SSPst in next st, rep from * across until 2 sts rem, sc in each of the last 2 sts, turn.
Row 14: ch 1, sc in each st across, turn.
Row 15: ch 1, sc in same st, *SSPst in next st, sc in next st, rep from * across, turn.
Row 16: (inc. row): ch 1, 2sc in first st, sc across placing 2sc in last st, turn.
Row 17: ch 1, sc in same st, *sc in next st, SSPst in next st, rep from * across until 2 sts rem, sc into each of the last 2 sts, turn.
Row 18: ch 1, sc in each st across, turn.
Row 19: ch 1, sc in same st, *SSPst in next st, sc in next st, rep from * across, turn.
Row 20: ch 1, sc in each st across, turn.
Row 21: ch 1, sc in same st, *sc in next st, SSPst in next st, rep from * across until 2 sts rem, sc in each of the last 2 sts, turn.
Row 22: ch 1, sc in each st across, turn.
Row 23: ch 1, sc in same st, *SSPst in next st, sc in next st, rep from * across, turn.
Row 24: (inc. row): ch 1, 2sc in first st, sc across placing 2sc in last st, turn.
Rep rows 17-24 until you have 81(81) sts.
Row 113-118: continue in stitch pattern WITHOUT increasing.
Fasten off leaving a long tail.
Assembly
Lay the front panel on top of the back panel. Make sure the back panel is right side facing up and the front panel is wrong side facing up.
Whip stitch the shoulders together.
Whip stitch up the sides of body panels leaving 7.5(7.5, 8, 8, 9, 9)” from the top of a gap for the sleeves.
Whip stitch the top of the sleeves to the body and then seam down along sides of sleeves.
Turn your sweater the right side out and attach your Dark Turquoise to the neckline, near the shoulder seam.
Round 1: ch 1, hdc all the way around the entire neckline. Slst to first hdc to close the round, turn.
Row 2: ch 13, hdc in 2nd ch from hook, hdc in next 11 chains, slst into next 2 hdc on neckline, turn.
Row 3: skip the 2 slsts you just did, hdcblo in next 12 hdc, turn.
Row 4: ch 1, hdcblo in next 12 hdc, slst in next 2 hdc on the neckline, turn.
Rep rows 3-4 all the way around the neckline.
Fasten off leaving a long tail. Using your long tail and yarn needle seam the two ends of the collar closed.
Weave in all your ends.

